Spotlight: Beyond the Slopes -- Dining in Whistler

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Posted by : Guest Blogger, Thu, Aug 05 2010

Once upon a time, in the late '60s -- when Whistler was just a gleam in developers' eyes - chili, poutine and other ski bum staples defined the culinary scene. Fast-forward a few decades to what we now know as North America's premier ski destination, Whistler -- still flush with Olympic afterglow -- has garnered a reputation beyond the world class slopes, to include world-class dining.

I recently checked out Whistler's summer dining scene, on a whirlwind, belly-busting tour that embraced everything from burgers to pork cheek ravioli. A few big trends are evident across the board: First, the hundred-mile diet is alive and well in Whistler. Every bistro, snack shack and restaurant I tried emphasized local ingredients, specifically fresh produce and meats from nearby Pemberton, and Fraser Valley. Second, snooty is out; casual and casually elegant is in. Even fine dining spots have re-envisioned their looks, aiming for an informal, welcoming atmosphere that appeals to locals and well-heeled out-of-towners alike.

Here's a quick run-down of my culinary adventure in Whistler:

Plating sushi at the bar, Araxi

Grilled Pemberton asparagus with crusted local hen egg at Araxi

Araxi: Now a household name thanks to Gordon Ramsey's Hell's Kitchen, Araxi is a restaurant hitting on all cylinders and clearly at the top of its game. Ambiance and service are impeccable -- a real model for other restaurants to emulate. Chef James Walt's menu -- while rooted in West Coast standards like wild BC salmon and Qualicum Bay scallops -- also wholeheartedly embraces locally grown produce and locally raised pork and lamb. The encyclopedic wine list -- 42 pages, with its own table of contents -- is a bit overwhelming but sure to please the most discriminating of winos.

Artisan cheesecakes at Sidecut restaurant at Four Seasons Whistler

Sidecut at the Four Seasons: New kid on the block Sidecut may soon rival Hy's for the title of Whistler's premier steakhouse. The steaks are exceptional: culled from the top two percent of Canadian beef, aged for 40 days, and culled on a unique 1,800 degree infrared grill that ensures even heat distribution and precision searing. Atmosphere, particularly for a Four Seasons restaurant, is also noteworthy: The steakhouse is casual (forgoing even the white tablecloths) and lively, benefiting from the pub vibe of the hotel bar just next door. One caveat: Sidcut's emphasis on signature steak rubs and specialty steak sauces may put off serious steak connoisseurs, who often prefer such exquisite cuts pure, and unadorned.

Lunch with a view at Christine's; Pemberton burger with sweet potato fries at Christine's on Blackcomb Mountain

Christine's on Blackcomb Mountain: Back in the day, mountain-top food on Whistler was so bad that skiers would often pack their own lunches rather than endure the soggy wieners and dubious burgers on offer at ski lodges. Today, Whistler's 18 slope-side restaurants are a favorite among skiers and sightseers alike. The jewel in Whistler's alpine dining crown is Christine's, which offers panoramic, mountain-top views and the kind of sophisticated fare rarely available at 5,000+ feet. Its summer menu features an exceptional plate of charcuterie and artisan cheeses, which pairs nicely with a flight of Okanagan wines. A meal at Christine's also comes with some unique perks, like the chance to see a black bear foraging just outside your window.

Dining with a view at Aura, Nita Lake Lodge; fresh-baked goods at Lift

Aura at the Nita Lake Lodge: Aura (which doesn't even have a website yet) is probably the best restaurant in Whistler that no one has ever heard of. Located a few kilometers outside of town on the shores of glacial Nita Lake, Aura serves aggressively fresh and inventive dishes cooked up by chef Tim Cuff (of Mission Hill and Wickaninnish fame). Wide windows giving onto the lake, high ceilings and a dark wood interior lend an almost meditative, Eastern air to the restaurant, which fits in with Nita Lake Lodge's new owner Ram Tumuluri's vision of reincarnating the boutique hotel into an ayurvedic yoga retreat. Fresh produce and herbs -- many of which are grown on the resort's roof-top garden -- feature prominently on the menu, lending even common dishes like pan-fried lake trout an intense and original flavouring. Just three months old, Aura seems poised to become a new Whistler favourite once word trickles out to the main village.

Lift Coffee Company: Amid a sea of Starbucks and Blenz, Lift stands out not just for serving good coffee, but also for offering a small yet praiseworthy selection of fresh baked goods and artisanal sandwiches. Among the more inventive sandwiches is savoury barbecued duck served with pickled vegetables and orange cilantro aioli. On a sunny summer day, pair it with a beer and head for Lift's big outdoor patio.

Anyone been to any of these? Do tell!

Remy Scalza is a food and travel writer who appears in The Washington Post, Wine Spectator, National Geographic Traveler and other outlets. He blogs about his adventures in Canada and elsewhere at RemyScalza.com and InsideVancouver.ca.