Dhokla is a Gujarati specialty. It’s made of a batter that steams to a moist cornbread texture, and then is tempered with a little flavored oil. Dhokla is always served with fresh chutney, sometimes as a snack, sometimes to accompany a meal. The amazing thing about dhokla is its versatility: it can be made of cornmeal or, more commonly, as here, a blend of dal and rice that is soaked then ground into a batter. The batter often contains yogurt.
Dhokla is one of a category of Gujarati dishes known as farshan. They are traditionally part of the meal, but eaten a little apart, as either a pre-meal appetizer or a break from the meal, in the same way that in France and Italy you might eat a little bread during the main course, as a pause.
The dal and rice need to soak for ten hours (you can leave them for 24 hours if it’s more convenient), then they are ground in the processor with yogurt and a little water to make a batter. As many cooks now do, we use baking soda to guarantee a light and well risen bread. (Traditionally the batter would instead be left to ferment for twelve hours to gain natural leavening, before being cooked.) Serve like bread, to accompany a meal.
Accompany with one or more fresh chutneys such as Fresh Coriander-Peanut Chutney. Serve as a bread to accompany a meal.
Yield: Makes one 6- to 7-inch (15 centimetre) cake pan of dhokla; serves six.
NOTE: Toovar dal is dark golden-coloured dried split peas, and is available in South Asian groceries. Black mustard seeds and curry leaves are available at most South Asian groceries.
EQUIPMENT NOTE: You’ll need a seven-inch diameter cake tin and a steamer or steaming arrangement that can hold the cake tin. We use a large 12-inch (30 centimetre) diameter pot and put into it a flat heavy lid that the cake tin of dhokla can stand on to raise it above the water. We add two inches (five centimetres) of water to the pot and bring it to a boil.
ingredients
Dhokla
Tempering
directions
Seven to 12 hours before you wish to serve the dhokla, start soaking the dal and the rice: Wash dal and rice separately. Place the dal in a bowl and add water to cover by one inch. Place the rice in another bowl and add water to cover by one inch. Cover both bowls and set aside to soak overnight or for at least six hours.
Drain dal, measure out 1 cup (225 millilitres) dal, and place in the food processor. Drain rice, measure out 1 cup (225 millilitres), and transfer to the food processor. Add 1/4 cup (50 millilitres) water and process for about a minute, until well ground. Add the yogurt and process again until smooth. The batter should be thick but pourable.
Set aside while you organize your steaming arrangement (see equipment note) and bring the water to a boil. Lightly grease a seven-inch (18 centimetre) diameter round cake tin.
Add salt and baking soda to the batter and process briefly to mix well. Pour the batter into the pan to a depth of between ½ and 3/4 of an inch (about 1 ½ centimetres) (the depth of your thumbnail is a good measure); you may not use quite all the batter.
Use oven mitts to protect your hands and arms as you transfer the pan into the steamer. Bring the water to a vigorous boil, then lower heat slightly to maintain a strong boil. After five minutes, remove the lid and wipe the underside dry, then replace the lid. Continue cooking until the top of the dhokla is shiny and the sides are pulling away slightly from the pan, about 15 minutes total. The dhokla will rise and puff after about five minutes, but needs more time to cook through.
Use oven mitts to protect yourself from the steam when you remove the pan from the steamer. Set it aside for 10 minutes to set. Use a sharp knife to slice it into about 1/2-inch / 1-centimetre diameter diamonds or squares; if any crumb sticks to the knife as you slice, wipe it clean and lightly oil the blade before proceeding. Set the pan of sliced dhokla by your stovetop.
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds, and when they start popping, add the sesame seeds; once the seeds have popped, about twenty seconds, toss in the curry leaves and remove from the heat. Pour the oil and flavourings over the dhokla.
You can leave it in the pan until you are ready to serve it. Dhokla can be made up to several hours ahead. We think it’s best made half an hour ahead, to give it time to gain flavour from the oil and for the texture to firm up as it cools to room temperature. Use a spatula to lift the squares out of the pan and onto a serving plate or else serve from the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature.